A short road trip to Tranquillity…by PaJohn Bentsifi Dadson

A short road trip to Tranquillity…by PaJohn Bentsifi Dadson

WhatsApp-Image-2024-09-09-at-12.45.34

With things hitting differently these days, making it harder and harder to make ends meet, I find myself going round in circles with my thoughts often. Even when I try to relax, something I just can’t put a finger on, gets me fidgeting. Perhaps, it’s exhaustion. I feel burnt out a lot! What with all the “concrete fever”, living in the city!

That’s why I’ve come here, to one of my all-time favourite haunts, tucked within the valleys of the plains of… in the Lower Manya Krobo district, off the highway about 45 minutes’ drive northwest from the Tema motorway roundabout towards Akosombo.

Here, set on a good few acres along the banks of the Volta, nestled near the town of Akuse, it is a location downstream from the Akosombo Dam, close to the other hydroelectric power generating station on the lower Volta. In the far distance is the breakwater construction we’ve driven on to get here.

I like to come here to this fine oasis of a place, to get away from it all. A place quite like no other, where from your room’s window, the vista frames a magnificent picture of nature, whichever direction you look, and standing at the shore of the river, staring at the expanse of water against the backdrop of the silhouettes of hills in the far horizon, the scene is just magical. The water is still, sublime even, and makes a soothing rippling sound as it hits the shore, therapy for the tired soul.

The Akuse Dam, constructed between 1977 and 1982, with its 148 megawatts capacity power station is also known as the Kpong Dam. It is owned and operated by the Volta River Authority, which also runs the larger Akosombo Dam nearby. That dam generates a substantial amount of Ghana’s electricity. Together, the dams have caused the largest artificial reservoir in the world based on surface area.

All completely within our country Ghana, Lake Volta lies along the prime meridian, six degrees north of the Equator and has a surface area of some 8,502 square kilometres, extending from Akosombo in the south to the northern part of the country.

Its northernmost point is close to the town of Yapei, and its southernmost extreme, at the Akosombo Dam is 520 km (320 mi) downstream from Yapei. It holds back both the White Volta River and the Black Volta River, which formerly converged where the middle of the reservoir now lies, to form the single Volta River. The present Volta River flows from the outlets of the dam’s powerhouse and spillways to the Atlantic Ocean all the way down south at the Ada estuary.

Another 20 odd minutes’ drive further north without turning off the main highway to Akuse, you’d be in the Asuogyaman district in the Eastern Region, a busy tourism hub. You’ll find in Atimpoku, where the iconic Adomi Bridge is located, many gems of lodges dotted along the lake, and in the surrounding area, some truly magnificent landscaping showing off some of the most spectacular scenery in Ghana. The Akosombo Dam and township built specifically for the workers of the hydroelectric project lies further north from Atimpoku.

Indigenous to the Akwamu people of Ghana, there’s a statue of a man in the centre of the roundabout at Atimpoku town which controls traffic going east across the Adomi, and straight ahead to Akosombo. He holds a set of keys.

Legend has it that this man, known as Asameni, an indigene who was actually a chief and powerful trader, nearly 350 years ago, led his people to infiltrate the colonialist Danish household, a fort named Christiansburg Castle located in Osu in Accra, by working as a cook and kitchen hands.

He managed to challenge and depose the Danish colonialists in a mutiny, retained control of the fort, and traded successfully with all nations, for almost a year. In 1694, he resold the fort to the Danes for the substantial sum of 50 marks of gold. He, however, did not return the keys of the castle, and has since been kept as part of the stool property of the Akwamu.

Lake Volta cuts through gorges in the Akwapim Togo mountain range, creating islands like the Dwarf, the Kporve and Dodi, where the popular leisure boat of the same name, cruises up to from Akosombo every weekend with live band performances and much entertainment. Upcountry, on the lake’s western shore lies the Digya National Park, the second largest national park and the oldest protected area, and the only wildlife territory in Ghana to have Lake Volta at its borders.

But, it is the Shai Hills Nature Reserve nearby, which, though not close to the lake, that we drive by en route here. Lately, the baboons in this park have found their way to congregate along the highway that passes in front of the park much to the delight of passers-by who find it amusing to see the primates. People often stop to feed these wild animals, causing them to keep returning to this location and risk being hit by speeding vehicles to death.

Feeding these baboons who live in the wild is a big “No no!”, says management of the Reserve. This phenomenon is becoming quite a menace. Baboons are very crafty animals, and feeding them makes them aware that there is an easy potential food source. They, therefore, make the spot a hangout. Soon, they begin to pester people for food, often very aggressively.

Intrinsically, wild animals have means of survival in the forest and must be left to fend for themselves. It is actually insensitive to deprive them of their natural instincts.

And let me caution you. Should you happen to stop to observe them, or encounter them at the Park, you must be weary when their eyebrows lift. That generally spells trouble. Especially when they want to secure their territory, seeing another baboon nearby,   their ears will pull back and eyebrows will be raised showing their eyelids. Their eyes would be fixed on the stimulus – that is, you. Often this expression would be accompanied with foot stomping meant to intimidate you or nearby baboons. At this juncture, calmly but swiftly move away. Just move away!

Sometimes, on my way here to my hideaway, I make a stop to visit the Park. Each visit becomes an unforgettable experience, as there are a good few variety of activities to engage in from seeing different species of birds alongside other wildlife like the baboons, zebras, antelopes, to climbing into caves and rocks. This place is an absolute must-visit for anyone visiting Ghana and looking for some outdoor adventures. Up on the rocks, looking far into the horizon, you can see Ghana in all its glory, vast, heaved and laid back.

It’s nice to escape the dizzle of city speed to come here. I’ve only just spent a couple of hours here at Mekandi, the riverside resort I come to hide, and I already feel restored. There are 22 well fitted air conditioned rooms here, each with its own private bathroom. The most fascinating thing I like about this place is their manicured lawn. Every time I come, I am very happy to see that they’ve kept to their culture of maintaining this extremely beautiful gem of theirs. There’s a generous size swimming pool near the outdoor shed restaurant through whose large openings you can catch glimpses of pretty birds wandering past. They’d land, and perch on one of the palm branches of the trees hoisted along the shore close by. Then, there’s that whole expanse of lawn, with the green grass cascading towards the lake, contrasting with its fluid azure.

I like that it is not far from the capital. A place where I can find a quiet spot to sit and sip cocktails by candlelight at night. Their kitchen whips up tantalizing feasts of grilled meats and salads. So, I gorge on that, leaving out the carbs.

I’ve booked a full body massage for later this evening. I have a spot quite close to shore, where the flow and subtle ripple of the water hitting the shore is always so calming. Like a balm, it always sends me off snoring the moment my back begins to feel the knead!

I’m so looking forward to surrendering to nature’s calm here at Mekandi tonight.

You must come here sometime, give yourself a treat, indulge in this riverside oasis and get renewed. Me, I’ve promised myself to do Ghana’s rural gems with lodging and not let the hustle of city life overtake me like it seems to be lately. Right now, I’m sitting by the pool with a cocktail in hand. Ah, this is the life!

Archives